SINGAPORE'S HAWKER FOOD

TIONG BAHRU

If you only have time to visit one neighbourhood to eat, make it this one. Singapore's first experiment with public housing resulted in wonderful low-rise art deco flats, and the neighbourhood has been gentrifying while retaining the old Singapore charm. The market is legendary, and much better at breakfast time

Within Tiong Bahru Market

Jian Bo chwee keuh, steamed rice cake with dried radish topping

Hua Yuan porridge

Hua Feng wanton noodles

Ru Yi vegetarian bee hoon (rice noodles)

238 Coffee

A short walk from the market

Tiong Bahru Bakery, with wonderful French pastries, esp almond croissants and kouign-aman

Xian Ji Porridge, the best stall we know, in the coffee shop beside Tiong Bahru bakery, 57 Eng Hoon Street #01-72. Sells out by 8am on some weekends

Loo's Hainanese Curry Rice, 57 Eng Hoon Street #01-88, diagonally across the street from the market

Tiong Bahru Yong Tau Foo, 56 Tiong Poh Road, stuffed beancurd in a very light, clear soup

MAXWELL ROAD FOOD CENTRE

The highest concentration of good food in the Central Business District. Walking distance from Tanjong Pagar MRT Station

Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice, the yardstick by which we measure all other chicken rice

Zhong Guo Jie Hainanese Curry Rice—3 kinds of curry saturate the rice, with delectable dishes

Jin Hua Fish Noodle Soup, with fried fish pieces in a milky broth laced with wine and ginger

Tong Heng Confectionary, with traditional Chinese pastries a minute's walk away in a shophouse on 285 South Bridge Road—egg tarts are luscious, curry puffs great

HONG LIM FOOD CENTRE

Great hawker centre just beside the Central Business District, where you can taste the Singapore of yore

Outram Park Fried Kway Teow—a representative local dish of flat rice noodles fried with dark soy sauce, lard, eggs and cockles, it is really difficult to find a good one these days. This stall does it brilliantly

Ah Heng Curry Chicken Noodles serves great spicy coconut soup over thick rice noodles

Hiong Kee Dumplings makes brilliant glutinous rice dumplings stuffed with sweet or savoury fillings, wrapped in bamboo leaves

BEDOK NORTH FOOD CENTRE

Wonderful place for dinner and supper

Chan's BBQ, grilled stingray (skate) on smoky banana leaf, with great sambal chili and lime

Xing Ji Rou Cuo Mian, minced pork noodles with meatballs

Sin Bedok North Chicken Wings, charcoal grilled chicken wings with a dash of lime

Chai Chee Porridge, Hainanese style rustic porridge

OTHER GREAT HAWKERS

Tai Hwa Minced Pork Noodles—probably our single favourite hawker dish, 466 Crawford Lane. Try to visit outside 11-3pm, when queues are more manageable http://www.taihwa.com.sg

Ng Ah Sio Ba Kut Teh. A local favourite of pork ribs in clear peppery broth, this stall does it the best. Stick to the main store at 208 Rangoon Road http://ngahsio.com

International Nasi Lemak, Changi Village Food Centre—Malay coconut rice with awesome sweet chili sambal, the nicest we’ve had in Singapore and Malaysia

Casuarina Roti Prata serves Indian pancakes with curry, 138 Casuarina Rd, Upper Tompson

Satay Stall Number 8 at Lau Pa Sat, where there is an open air satay street in the evenings in the middle of the Central Business District